One of the first sites I had on my schedule while in the Philippines was an island called Marinduque. It is actually just south of mainland Luzon Island (not that this description is helping for the 99% of you that don’t study in the Philippines). All you have to realize is that it is one of the closer islands to Manila. So as you guessed, it only took about 12 hours to reach our destination. Unlike our Aurora bus trip though, the Marinduque voyage was broken up nicely into four, three-hour segments—Bus, Boat, Bus, Jeepney...and water buffalo. Maybe the water buffalo didn’t actually carry us the last leg, but the place we stayed at had one roaming the grounds. The island’s habitat has been nearly completely disturbed by heavy mining over the years. There still is some habitat remaining, however, and we were hoping to scout future sites while making courtesy calls to the mayor. Unfortunately for us, we arrived late Friday night, which meant the offices were closed until Monday.
We headed to the only pension house in town—The Buenavista Hot Springs Resort. I know, doesn’t that sound just delightful. A resort, hot springs; I could see the room service serving up some amazing Italian food and pastries. Even the prices were hinting at something amazing. At 1,000 pesos a night, roughly 20 US dollars, this resort was as expensive as staying in moderately scary places in Manila. Everything felt right…and then we got into the room. If you know the feeling of sleeping in a place that wasn’t cleaned since it was built, you were secretly right there with us. The air conditioning didn’t work, cockroaches scuttled across the floor, there was no door to the restroom, and the toilet didn’t flush.
Actually, I might as well just point out that the only running water came from a dripping pipe out of the wall (but the water was warm, probably from their hot springs). Yeah, this was definitely a “shoes while showering, sleep with your clothes on, wear a mask and rubber gloves 24/7, kind of place.” Finally, Monday arrives and we head to the Mayors office to seek a local site permit. Just for your own knowledge, Monday, the 23rd of February is a Buenavista holiday. We found ourselves in quite a predicament having to be heading back to Manila Monday night. Fortunately, the town was small enough that we were able to simply visit the Mayor at her home and she was happy to collaborate on our project.
I thought that I should at least give you some background in the amazing world of tropical diseases, from my own experiences of course. It never ceases to amaze me how many stomach problems I develop on any typical trip to the Philippines. For instance, it took me all of 4 days here on this trip to be back on antibiotics. Four days! I mean, come on, that is ridiculous. For the most part I try to stick to bottled water as much as possible. When we are surveying mountain sites, the pristine river water is just fine, and it is usually the city water that gives me problems. Stomach problems aside, you have the constant worry of infections as well. Numerous scratches, mild wounds, and rashes are just a few of the wonderful side effects of field biology. As long as you can keep the wounds clean and dry they will heal quickly. Of course, in an environment of 2 million percent humidity, and heat that can only be matched by actually standing on the sun, it is often difficult to do this. We do the best we can though. Prior to my first expedition in 2004, I was aware of all of the possible diseases I could catch and be vaccinated for. The vaccination process took several months and was incredibly expensive. I had to receive vaccines for typhoid fever, rabies, Japanese encephalitis, tetanus, flu, hepatitis – the list went on and on. In addition to the shots you can get ahead of time, there are areas where the most dangerous viruses and diseases are mosquito born. Everyone has heard of Malaria, and luckily, you can protect yourself while traveling by taking one of several anti-malarial medications. However, what I was never aware of prior to my first expedition was Dengue Fever, and I bet you can’t guess what the first illness I encountered in the Philippines. It was 2004 and I had been in the Philippines for my first month of Asian fieldwork…ever. It started in Bohol Island. Fever. Chills. I didn’t know it at the time but I had caught Dengue Fever five days earlier on a small island elsewhere in the archipelago (Dengue has an incubation period). The “fever” is actually a mosquito born virus that comes in four strains (flavors, if you will) here in the Philippines. The mosquito is larger than most people are used to, has white stripes, and occurs more often than not in cities and towns rather than in the forest. Oh yeah, it is diurnal, meaning it attacks its victims during the day. Now, I am not saying these harbingers of doom are the size of cars; they are noticeably bigger.
The way it works is a lamok (that’s Tagalog for mosquito) bites an individual already infected with the early stages of the virus. Then it finds someone else to bite. So not only was I unlucky enough to get bitten in broad daylight, probably while walking down the street in my town, but the insect had been one of the infected. I spent the next eight days in a hospital bed, on an IV, and close to needing a blood transfusion. The blood’s platelet count usually drops significantly with the virus, sometimes to a point that a person will actually experience internal bleeding. Just so you know, a normal platelet count is between 150,000-400,000. My count had gone from 155,000 on day three to 115,000 that evening, and by day six was down to 58,000. The fever is a continual 103 degrees for the duration of the virus. It is not all bad; the hallucinations can at least be an adventure. One night in particular I remember having to capture the dragon each time I wanted to fall asleep. Finally on day 8 my fever broke. My body slowly stopped aching and my platelet count started to rise again. Now I find that when I see a mosquito I jump back and start swatting at the air. What a wimp, huh?
Touchdown. I finally made it to the Philippines. Actually, I made it a few days ago after having spent a night in Hawaii. I highly recommend the Best Western at the Honolulu airport as a nice place to stay if you are only in town for 12 hours. They have waffles for breakfast! Once I reached the Manila airport I had to wait for quite a while for my three large duffel bags to arrive at baggage claim. Once the entire 170-pound shipment arrived, I was picked up by our close friend and collaborator, Dr. Arvin Diesmos. Over the last two days we have set up several meetings for early next week to begin working on site permits for upcoming expeditions. I have also showered twice and plan on brushing my teeth later tonight. Jet lag has to be the worst part of traveling to and from Southeast Asia.
My mother has worked for years at Frontier Airlines and I therefore grew up hearing about jet lag and methods for keeping the effects at bay. Some of these methods are effective, like drinking water throughout the flight, not overeating, setting your sleep schedule to match the country of destination, and of course wearing one pink sock and one purple sock. I have found other methods less effective, like sleeping with your eyes open while holding your breath.
To some extent a few days of jet lag are unavoidable, and to prepare you, let me paint a brief picture of what the average global traveler experiences. For the first few days you are living in one day/night schedule while your mind and body are still back home. The Philippine time zone is 14 hours ahead of Kansas, and while it is daytime here, it is the night before back home. Your body will tolerate things fine throughout the morning, given you wake up at 4 a.m. and can’t fall back asleep. Then there is what I like to call the 2 p.m. drug induced day walking. You know you need to stay awake, but your body and mind have decided to go out clubbing for the last 12 hours and are shutting down regardless of what you tell yourself. All I can recommend is being close to a bed, couch, or small hammock for a quick (6 hour) nap. Things have already started to improve. This morning I slept until 5:21 a.m. before the roosters and barking dogs decided it was time for the morning symphony of nature’s sounds.
There is leaving for an expedition, and then there is leaving for a nine-month expedition. Where to begin packing is a question I am always asking myself. The airlines have not made it any easier. While we used to be able to check-in two enormous 70-pound bags, we are now only allowed two 50-pound bags. This means I will be leaving my car at home this year. I would say that I get a little too meticulous about packing. Everything has to be placed out on the floor organized by size, and then by color. Lists have to be checked off, and then the list listing the original lists also has to be reviewed. Don’t get me started on making sure you have duplicates of everything in preparation for the day a thief targets my Britney Spears music collection and 15 containers of dental floss.
In the end, I have packed and repacked. Each time a bag gets full, I have to hold it standing on a scale to make sure it will make the weight. The process is tedious, but if you can pack 90% of the field supplies you intended to, you are a rockstar. Important equipment always comes on the plane with me. This means I have a daypack filled with camera equipment, my computer, important documents, and of course, my passport. With all of this equipment, my carry-on bags get pretty heavy. By the end of a long trip overseas I have the most beautiful red rashes on my shoulders and a back that has aged 10 years. Finally, you arrive to check in at the airport and you do what every field biologist does while checking in. You hold your breath. Are the bags underweight? Will I be charged one million extra dollars for my luggage? Can this Northwest Airlines agent smell my fear? Unfortunately, I am convinced that the scales at the airport make everything heavier, and what weighed 48 pounds at home will weigh 53 pounds at the airport. The lesson I have learned over the years is to pack with 5 pounds to spare. And so I depart for the Philippines, by way of four cities, and 48 hours of fun travel time. At least I have two copies of Britney’s recent hit.